Bonsai/Tips and tricks

Yes you can defoliate the tree, but only when it's growing strongly. Some people do it with trident maples I believe in the spring, and when summer rolls round a new set of smaller leaves will have emerged. A less drastic method is to cut the top half of each leaf off, it doesn't stress the tree too much and it will eventually drop the leaves and grow new smaller ones later on in the season. But, the best thing I think is effective root pruning, over several years it will help to miniaturize the leaves. (typo corrections by me - Skylark)

The most important element in watering your bonsai is the SOIL! To minimize water-related problems, I use a free draining soil mix that will allow water to run through, and at the same time, absorb water and oxygen.

In order for you to water your bonsai properly, you need to learn the watering needs of each of your trees. One of the following statements should describe the needs of each of your trees.

Keep moist at all times, but not wet. Water only if the soil is drying out. Water when the soil is almost dry. Water when the soil has dried to the point that it will be DRY before your next watering. When soil is DRY, water yesterday.

The second most important element in watering you bonsai is: water each individual bonsai only when it needs watering...and every time you water it, give it a thorough drenching!

The Watering Process...this process assumes the use of a proper, well draining bonsai soil mix.

To determine when a bonsai needs watering, check the water content of the soil at 1½-2" below the surface. I use a small "chopstick" (a bamboo skewer) in the soil to indicate watering requirements. Daily, for each individual bonsai, I pull the "chopstick" out of the soil and check the moisture. If the bonsai needs watering (moist, drying out, almost dry, dry...), I do not replace the "chopstick" until after watering ...no "chopstick" means water now!

With experience you may be able to tell when a plant needs water by lifting the plant, and/or by what the plant looks like…goodbye "chopstick"!

I then water each of the identified bonsai the same way…always overhead watering, never by emersion. Use the following steps:

1. Water lightly with a fine spray, from a distance (12-18")... just 10-30 seconds (depending on the size of the bonsai being watered). This will relax the surface tension, allowing the free flow of water...wait 5-10 minutes.

2. Move the spray nozzle closer, and water until water runs freely out through the drain holes.

IMPORTANT NOTE 1...watch how fast the water starts draining from the bottom of the pot. If it is almost instantaneous, it is likely that water has flowed to the edges of the pot, drained down and out…bypassing the soil and root ball. This bonsai may be rootbound. If "standing water" takes more than 1 minute to drain, the soil is not draining freely enough…watch for root rot!

IMPORTANT NOTE 2...water the plant for a sufficient period of time to be sure that the soil has been completely hydrated, without relying solely on water emerging from the drain holes as an indicator of proper watering.

This watering will loosen dust and dissolve excess and unwanted minerals and salts, which have collected in the soil. As the water runs down through the soil, air is drawn into the small channels between the soil particles…if you listen closely, and your hearing is good, you may be able to hear the air rushing in!

THEN...Wait about 10 minutes for this process to work.

3. Now, give the soil a good drenching…this watering flushes out the excess and harmful waste materials.

4. Give all bonsai a good foliar spray about once a week…to remove dust and dirt.

Note: I use tap water (here in Southern Arizona “tap” is well water) for all my watering…with very little sign of salt or mineral buildup on pots or trunks…EXCEPT: Some buildup on leaves. Any bonsai that I plan on showing will get a good, daily foliar spraying, using bottled water, for a week or more before the showing.